May 15th, Jerusalem & The Western Wall

My first full day in Jerusalem was basically one of relaxation. I just needed to recharge my batteries. So I basically wandered the streets of the Old City and got caught up on e-mails. I stayed in a different Hostel last night. As it turns out it was the same hostel that Herman Melville and Mark Twain stayed at. I moved to a different hostel the next day though and this one is in the guts of the Old City about 100 yards away from the Temple Mount. The building it is in is over 500 years old and the people here are incredibly nice. When I checked in they told me that the cheapest rent was 45 sheckles a night and that was to sleep on the roof. So let me get this straight, cheapest rent AND I get to sleep outdoors in Jerusalem? Sold!

As I was wandering the Old City I decided to follow the Via Dolerosa, just something to do. I got to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and was immediately impressed with the throngs of Christian Pilgrims all pouring into the mouth of the cathedral. As I descended into the darkness of the church I was greeted by a huge slab of stone in the middle of the floor which Christ was supposed to have lain on. Some Pilgrims were praying and others were kissing or caressing the stone. A very interesting scene. The Church is said to be the Holiest place in Christianity, being the actual locations of Christ's crucifixion. But I have no idea how any of the authenticity of the locations could be determined, nor have I ever been much of a relic hunter. So it was more a learning experience rather than a spiritual one. I did not stay long at the church because I had to run home and change if I wanted to make it to the Western Wall in time top help pray in the Sabbath. So I ran home, put on some long pants and my yamekah and plunged back into the Old City streets.

As I approached the wall I was overcome with the scene. The place was swarming with Jews of all different schools all approaching and praying at the wall. Some were in their sabbath best with silk coats and large fur hats. Others dressed more simply with only buttoned up shirts and their ringlets tucked behind their ears as they read from the Torah. I had prepared a prayer beforehand to fold and place within the wall and as I approached to do so I came to an interesting realization. The Jewish people believe that by approaching the Wall you are approaching the presence of God himself for the spirit of the Master of the Universe dwells therein. In a sense, the Western Wall is much like the veils in our temples. I was entering the presence of God. I went up to the Wall and took my place amongst the praying Jews and felt it and kissed the stones. I then inserted my prayer. I pulled out my Old Testament amongst all the other Torahs from which people were reading. I read from Genesis 28 and thought about the Covenants which the ancient Temple represented, the covenants that the crowd in which I was standing would always remember but had also forgotten.

Wile I was praying I heard the beginnings of a lively Jewish hymn sung by young male voices. I turned around and saw a group of no less than 100 Jewish boys from the ages of 13-18 marching down a 30ft wide ramp linked arm in arm. As they sang they would take two steps forward then one step back then two steps forward again as they descended toward the Western Wall, faces beaming.

Once in the courtyard they began to sing and dance in circles. I walked up to one of the circles and a man grabbed my hand and pulled me right into the dance with the rest of them. With joined hands we ran and jumped around in circles singing the hymns of the Sabbath at the top of our voices. I knew no Hebrew, but would do my best to sing along with vowels and tones. The energy was incredible. I have never before been so completely immersed in a culture, a faith, and a people.

I found it interesting that as a Christian I had a more spiritual experience at the Western Wall than I did at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Why was that? At first I thought, well maybe it is because I never have really been a seeker after of relics. But isn't the Western Wall a religious relic in its own way? Would it be because the Wall is authentic there is no doubt that it was part of Solomon's, Zaruabables, and then Herod's temple whereas the Christian relics are more suspect? Or could it simply be the energy of the deep and struggling faith of the Jewish people strikes a chord with me? As George Eliot wrote, "I am stricken, I am dying. But our souls know each other...The life of Israel is in your veins."

Final thought. As I was dancing and singing I stopped at the sight of an older Jewish man sitting in a chair praying. He clutched his Torah against his breast and covered his eyes as if he was weeping. Such joy and such anguish all present at the same spot, in the same moment. How deeply felt the Jewish faith must be. I can find no words to express the thoughts that entered my mind at that moment, so I will not try. I will let the Ezra speak for me.


8 Now in the second year of their coming unto the house of God at Jerusalem, in the second month, began Zerubbabel the son of Shealtiel, and Jeshua the son of Jozadak, and the remnant of their brethren the priests and the Levites, and all they that were come out of the captivity unto Jerusalem; and appointed the Levites, from twenty years old and upward, to set forward the work of the house of the Lord.

9 Then stood Jeshua with his sons and his brethren, Kadmiel and his sons, the sons of Judah, together, to set forward the workmen in the house of God: the sons of Henadad, with their sons and their brethren the Levites.

10 And when the builders laid the foundation of the temple of the Lord, they set the priests in their apparel with trumpets, and the Levites the sons of Asaph with cymbals, to praise the Lord, after the ordinance of David king of Israel.

11 And they sang together by course in praising and giving thanks unto the Lord; because he is good, for his mercy endureth for ever toward Israel. And all the people shouted with a great shout, when they praised the Lord, because the foundation of the house of the Lord was laid.

12 But many of the priests and Levites and chief of the fathers, who were ancient men, that had seen the first house, when the foundation of this house was laid before their eyes,wept with a loud voice; and many shouted aloud for joy:

13 So that the people could not discern the noise of the shout of joy from the noise of the weeping of the people: for the people shouted with a loud shout, and the noise was heard afar off. (Ezra 3:8-13)